Introduction: first doubts about my route

Many roads are leading to the southern tip of Africa. Finding the ideal route was not an easy task. After driving around Lake Victoria, I had to get southwards. However, the area eastern of Lake Victoria has quite a bad reputation. Rwanda had a terrible Genocide only two decades ago, the Congo and Burundi are still struggling internally. Even about Tanzania’s Northwest I have heard bad things – though unconfirmed. In the end, I decided for the easiest route across Rwanda with a day trip to the Congo and then through the Wild West of Tanzania. Burundi was no option due to its internal disputes and new Visa policies. Most of the distance, I covered along the African Great Lakes.

Rwanda: life after the horrible Genocide

Two decades ago, Rwanda shocked the world with a bloody Genocide. I have encountered a completely different nation. Today, the country is eerily clean, safe and offers a Southern European flair. To my surprise, I was happily greeted by a tourism officer at the border. Next, I had to switch the side of the road – being the only country in Eastern and Southern Africa without British right-handed traffic. Throughout the country, I encountered extraordinary infrastructure such as roads and mobile internet. Nevertheless, most of the population is very poor and the roads are crowded with pedestrians. Countless memorials and mass graves educated me about the terrible history. The unprecedented clearance of the past, left the people retained and featureless.

Congo: peaceful animals amongst agitated people

I only grasped a glimpse of this huge and troubled nation. From Rwanda, I undertook an overnight trip to Goma and the Virunga National Park. In the city of Goma, I met mostly agitated people and felt an imminent inner unrest. This eerie feeling only vanished after being back to Rwanda for a few minutes. Visiting the mountain Gorillas in the Virunga on the other hand, was majestic. After a long journey, I could spend one timed hour with a family of nine apes. The two babies were playful, while the two mighty silverbacks were reluctantly chewing bamboo. Political stability will once produce a wonderful country.

Tanzania: southwards along the wild west

Crossing the largest nation in Eastern Africa overland is not easy. Tanzania has a bad reputation of terrible roads and corrupt police. Against all odds, I decided to drive down the more scenic, but less developed West. There was no time for excessive Game Drives, but the scenic landscapes and vast Lake Tanganyika were truly gratifying. Seemingly endless hours on dusty roads without an air conditioning was a highlight by itself. On the few police checkpoints, only a single one tried – utterly unsuccessful – to find an issue to punish. Tanzania’s West is vast, wild and worth a longer visit.

Colonial heritage: a warship on Africa’s largest lake

Until the first world war, Germany maintained some colonies in Africa. German East Africa included today’s Tanzania, Burundi and Rwanda. In order to defend the western border, they brought a fully equipped warship to the Lake Tanganyika. Today, the ship operates as a ferry (MV Liemba) along the lake. Due to its irregular and unpredictable schedule, I was not able to spot the ship. Other than that, I did not encounter any German legacy. Whereas the later British occupation left the language, power plugs and left handed traffic. The African continent combines more than 50 nations. Nearly all of them still represent the colonial borders, defined by Europe on paper.

Independence: the long road to freedom and peace

In the Congo as well as Rwanda, I was confronted with the heavy past. Both nations suffered from an internal power struggle since their independence. Some of the trouble can certainly be traced back to a mismanagement and uncontrolled release from the colonial power. The Congo as Africa’s largest country unites countless tribes with different languages. It was formed as a private property of the Belgium’s King and never properly governed. Rwanda, on the other hand, was once an independent Kingdom. After the First World War, Belgium took over from Germany. They laid a crucial fundament for the later Genocide, by fortifying the vague caste system into a strict race: Tutsi and Hutu.

Summary: beautiful nature in troubled areas

Driving two weeks southwards along the Great Lakes was not enough. After overcoming my first doubts and moving on, I discovered scenic landscapes and mostly friendly people. Despite the bad reputation and the African “hakuna matata” lifestyle, my journey continued without a noteworthy incidence. Along endless lakes, through thick forests, over dusty and bumpy roads, I safely made my way southwards. I really enjoyed the time off the beaten path, where only few tourists go. Enjoying local cake (Mandasi) and tea even in the remotest village.

A big thank to my always happy and positive travel companion.