The Habsburg Empire

More than just Austria and Hungary
Thursday, November 5, 2015 to Saturday, November 14, 2015

Introduction: looking for the once so prestigious empire

My previous journey ended in Belgrade, one of the utter most border point of the Habsburg Empire. Vast estates to the North once belonged to this prestigious dynasty. Only one century ago, the same region was still ruled by the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. Today, the land is divided into several countries, mostly part of the European Union. This journey should lead me through major parts of the former empire and to important cities on the way. Besides the two magnificent capitals Vienna and Budapest, there are plenty more remains to see. I was hoping to see some of the heritage of the former glory.

Croatiainfo-icon and Sloveniainfo-icon: slowly starting the journey in the Balkan

Because I already knew the coastal West of both countries, I only crossed the East now. Both countries are still part of the Balkan and once belonged to Yugoslavia. However, their appearance and mentality is much closer to Central Europeinfo-icon. After crossing the border to Croatia and entering Zagreb, I already felt like in Switzerlandinfo-icon or Austriainfo-icon. Generous parks and architecture surround the medieval old town with its narrow allies. The third layer around the center includes industrial and modern business complexes. Maribor (former Marburg) in Slovenia shows exactly the same pattern, only in a smaller dimension and less pompous. On its picturesque vineyards, I enjoyed the great view over the city and its hinterlands.

Hungaryinfo-icon: the country of magnificent opposites

Coming from the Southwest, my first encounter was the beautiful Lake Balaton. A truly peaceful place, where elderly locals are strolling and catching their fish. Quite the opposite of the pulsating and youthful metropolis of Budapest. After mastering the evening traffic chaos, I met a friend who joined me for the weekend. Together we explored both parts of the city on each side of the Danube River. On the west bank, the hilly Buda with its caste district shines majestically. Across the river, the urban Pest incorporates a unique fusion of Art Nouveau architecture and modern city life. Surprisingly, the old Jewish quarter is todays nightlife district with restaurants and hip bars. The remains of the empire are well visible, but Budapest clearly moved one step further. The city is huge, but you can visit and experience many things in only a few days in Budapest!

Austria: imperial grandeur with a fresh urban blend

As a neighbouring country, I have visited Austria before. However, this was the first time I step a foot into the glorious capital, Vienna. Thanks to a dear old friend, I had a very central and cozy place to start and explore the city. Wandering through the city center, I was fascinated by the magnificent architecture with a modern blend. Traditional grand cafes with their superior interior lie next to urban shops, barbers and pubs. Endless horse carriages and cultural performances are invoking and reviving the spirit of the past grandeur. I enjoyed cozy niches along the Danube canal, as well as the view from the impressive Stephansdom. A stroll through the Schönbrunn castle and deserted Prater completed my experience. Vienna may be oversized for todays Austria, but it still spreads its joie de vivre.

Learn more about Austrian culture and its people by reading my experiences after traveling few times around Austria!

Czech Republicinfo-icon and Slovakiainfo-icon: appealing, but less shiny

I cannot say much about these two - formerly joined - nations. Because of my tight schedule and intense route, I only passed them very quickly. Thankfully, the Slovak capital Bratislava (formerly Pressburg) lies directly next to Vienna and the Czech city of Brno (formerly Brünn) on the way to Polandinfo-icon. Both cities are rather small and charming with their well preserved center. Bratislava certainly left a stronger impression on me: strolling through its gobble stone alleys and overlooking its reddish tile roofs from the hill fortress are truly enchanting. Urban street art and modern sculptures are enriching the experience. In comparison, Brno feels more like wildly thrown together elements. Exploring its underground labyrinth was impressing though. Both places have their appealing, but seem pale next to their shining counterparts.

Poland: a magical place full of kings and students

As the former capital of the Kingdom of Poland, Krakow sounds very promising. Thanks to a lovely friend, I have recently met in Kyiv, I had the perfect home base and companion in Krakow. The historic old town is rather small, but surely one of the most beautiful places in Europe. My friend showed me some of the greatest spots and gave me interesting insights into the Polish history and culture. Together we passed by countless students and tourists on our way to eat and drink at a more local place. I was amazed by so many highlights: Collegium Maius (14th century university), Kazimierz (jewish district), Wawel (kings residence) and Wieliczka (salt mine). They truly master the preservation of their heritage, but also allow new culture to prosper.

Ukraineinfo-icon: where chocolate and ruins create wonders

My last stage led me to the northeastern most outpost of the empire in todays Ukraine. Lviv is said to be the smaller, yet untouched cousin of Krakow. Here everything looks wilder, is less restored and somehow more mystical. Small houses with chocolate factories and lovely decorated rooms on several stories invite you to Wonderland. Countless musicians, performance artists and seller in costumes turn the streets into an open stage. Those shops and streets are surprisingly crowded with tourists - mostly Ukrainians. The countries crisis and inflation may keep them from traveling abroad, but not within the country. With this magical place, my current journey has found a worthy closing in Lviv.

Summary: enchanting, magnificent and magical

On this journey, I was looking for the glorious remains of the prestigious Habsburger. I wanted to pass through the lands of the former Empire and explore nowadays countries and cities. From the beginning till the very end, I was amazed by magnificent and enchanting places. Even though much of the former glory is lost, a new kind of modern style is blending in. Not every inch and angle is shining, but the contrast of urban ruins and vivid life is utterly appealing. Centuries after the Habsburger, I was experiencing their heritage and much more.

Very big thanks to all friends who supported and joined me on this journey!

My waypoints on this journey

Zagreb - the sunny central european capital
the sunny central european capital
Maribor - somewhere between the sea and mountains
somewhere between the sea and mountains
Lake Balaton - fresh water for the body, mind and soul
fresh water for the body, mind and soul
Budapest - a fusion of two utterly different cities
a fusion of two utterly different cities
Castle Hill - the castle hill without a castle
the castle hill without a castle
The Great Synagogue - an important religious and historic landmark in Budapest
an important religious and historic landmark
Szimpla - the art of making a bar out of ruins
the art of making a bar out of ruins
The Labyrinth of Buda Castle - walking in the dark, deep inside
walking in the dark, deep inside
Bratislava - quiet and colorful old town
quiet and colorful old town
Bratislava Castle - impressive because of the view
impressive because of the view
Vienna - still a glamorous and prestigious capital
still a glamorous and prestigious capital
Wurstelprater - much more than just a ferrys wheel
much more than just a ferrys wheel
Donauinsel - international, recreative, protective
international, recreative, protective
MuseumsQuartier - an overload of art and culture
an overload of art and culture
Schönbrunn Castle - the epicentre of the Habsburg Empire
the epicentre of the Habsburg Empire
Brno - former capital of Moravia
former capital of Moravia
Labyrinth Brno - history museum in gloomy celars
history museum in gloomy celars
Kraków - medieval city full of students and tourists
medieval city full of students and tourists
Kazimierz - the town that became a Jewish District
the town that became a Jewish District
Wawel Royal Castle - where all the great kings lived and died
where all the great kings lived and died
Collegium Maius - studying the world since a millennia
studying the world since a millennia
Wieliczka Salt Mine - the salty underground labyrinth
the salty underground labyrinth
Lviv - one night in wonderland
one night in wonderland
Breclav
passing by a historic castle from the 11th century