The Black Sea

From catacombs to sunny beach
Wednesday, October 14, 2015 to Wednesday, October 21, 2015

Introduction: the quest for warmth

Exploring the heritage of the Soviet Union was thrilling. But still being in the Ukraineinfo-icon, I was looking for a lighter topic and warmer weather. As a major border between Europeinfo-icon and Asiainfo-icon, the Black Sea looked like the perfect target. This region promised to offer mountains, rivers and beaches. So I planned a route to see both, the various waterfronts as well as the hinterlands. Starting in Odesa, I set out to explore Romaniainfo-icon and Bulgariainfo-icon.

Ukraine: underground exploration

Arriving in Odesa after sunset, I was disappointed by the cold and rainy weather. The summer season was definitely over and the city left to its residents. Fortunately, this city was way brighter enlightened than Kyiv by night. With a private tour guide I drove outside the center to explore the wild Catacombs. For two centuries these manmade tunnels supplied the building materials for the harbour town. Despite its vast network of underground labyrinth, there is no excess in crime. Also the city center is pretty quiet, with some police patrol showing up now and then. Besides a few cranes and container ships, I did not see much of the Black Sea.

Romania: divided by the mountains

Traveling through the country from North to South, I crossed the Carpathian Mountains twice. This long chain of mountains divides the country into different geographic regions. In the Northeast, narrow roads curved over hills and through small villages. Transylvania in central Romania is a big flat plateau surrounded by the Carpathian Mountains. Along those elevations lye colourful forests with countless castles and medieval towns. In Brasov, Bran and Peles, I learned much about the nations history and dark myths. Bucharest presented itself from its best side, righteously called Paris of the East. The city center is full of life and rich of culture, a place to stroll around and enjoy. Back to the Black Sea, I was again confronted with windy and cold weather.

Bulgaria: many layers of history

Along the coast to the South, I finally met a fair amount of sunshine. The beaches in and around the port town of Varna are really inviting. After some hesitation, I finally took a short swim in the Black Sea. Further to the South, I arrived at an utterly deserted and unappealing Sunny Beach. Closed supermarkets, bars and hotels seem to be in in hibernation and are waiting for the next season. At least in Nesebar, the beautiful peninsula, I met some open restaurants and a hand full of lost tourists. Leaving the coast again, my way let to Sofia. Different layers of buildings tell of a rich history: Roman Empire, Medieval ages, Ottoman occupation, Communist rule and postmodernity.

Summary: quite different than expected

My mission to find a lighter topic and warmer weather failed. On my journey from Odesa to Sofia, I saw more clouds than sunshine. The temperature was slightly higher than before, but rain and wind dominated those days. Moreover, I learned about more communist rulers, bloody revolutions and corruption. Today, these countries are up and running, but at a rather slow pace. On the other hand, I met a lot of great people. Wherever I went, I made new friends and had a terrific time with them!

A big thanks to everybody who crossed my path with a smile.

Adrian Sameli founder and editor of aSabbatical.com
Travel mindfully to meet local people around the world and embrace new cultures. Get inspired and inspire others!

My waypoints on this journey

Odesa - probably not what it used to be
probably not what it used to be
Catacombs - dark labyrinth with traces of the centuries
dark labyrinth with traces of the centuries