Republic of Kenya

From the ocean over the high plateau and rift valley to the big lakes, deserts and forests
Tuesday, May 24, 2016 to Thursday, June 30, 2016

Introduction: getting out of the bustling metropolis

Nairobi is the best homebase to discover all of Republic of Kenyainfo-icon. Most people living and working in Nairobi, just live to leave the city again. As much as I enjoy the city life, I was also very eager to leave the traffic, noise and hustling behind. Whether by airplane, bus or train - there are many great destinations in reach. Traveling within Kenya seems quite uncomplicated and affordable. Due to my project, I could go on multiple field trips. In addition, I used very second weekend and official holiday to get around.

Lake Victoria: from the fresh fish to the rain forest

My consultancy for Angaza brought me to Western Kenya. Visiting distributors of solar lanterns and home systems in the rural surroundings of Kisumu and Kakamega. From the very first moment, I enjoyed this area! Life is so much more relaxed and people seemingly more friendly. At the Lake Victoria, I enjoyed tasty tilapia fish and observed hippos. Around Kakamega, I slandered through small markets and cycled through Kenya’s last rain forest.

Lake Turkana: simple life between desert and lake

On a small charter flight, we landed on a dusty airstrip in the middle of nowhere. Twelve random people joining a weekend trip to the Marsabit Lake Turkana Cultural Festival. This was also my only travel with only expats, gathered online on Internations.org. We had a lot of fun, dancing with a dozen local tribes, admiring their decorative costumes and huts. As a group we went climbing on rocks in the desert and cruising across the lake to observe Crocodiles. For a few days, the Christian Missionary was our home.

Central plateau: living on 2’000 meters above sea

Nairobi sits on the edge of the Rift Valley on a high plateau. This area in central Kenya is between 1’500 and 3’000 meters (5’000 – 10’000 feet) above sea level. Here are also the highest mountains located. With over 5’000 meters, Mount Kenya is the second highest mountain in Africainfo-icon. In Europeinfo-icon, this would be the best region for skiing and snowboarding. Since I am not so much into summer hiking, I did not explore this region so well. Nairobi and its surroundings was enough for me.

Rift Valley: stunning views on the gateway to nature

When driving overland to the west, suddenly an endless valley unfolds. This gigantic valley stretches from Tanzaniainfo-icon in the South to Ethiopiainfo-icon in the North. On two separate tours, did I reach the border and stopped to view the stunning outlook. Within the valley, countless volcanos and national parks offer the perfect getaway. My highlight was a daytrip on a national holiday with a large group of young Kenyans. Being the only foreign participants, my friend from California and I experienced a unique trip. Singing and dancing as a warmup, cycling and hiking through a beautiful gorge and then relaxing in a hot spring.

Masai Mara: on a safari to track down all the big five

On a bumpy road we entered the preface to the most famous park. Even the drive through the privately managed conservancy around the Masai Mara was a blast. Zebras, Giraffes, Wildebeests, Pumbas and Gazelles are standing along the road and graze. The park itself topped all my expectations: spotting a Cheetah, calmly relaxing in the high grass; observing a group of Hyenas, waiting for the Lion to free its pray; following the traces of a Lions family with three small cubs; driving around a large herd of wandering Elephants – just to mention a few highlights.

Along the Coast: from ancient tribes to luxury resorts

On two separate trips, I discovered the rich and diverse culture of the coast. Together with my friend from California, I explored the northern part close to Somalia. With little concerns, we flew to the Lamu archipelago. There we captured a crew of local fisherman and sailed to the isolated Pate Island. A few weeks later, I took the epic Railway to Mombasa. Passing by my Kenyan friend’s local home region. Together we explored old Mombasa and relaxed at the white sandy beaches of Diani. Both locations are part of the Swahili coast and are developed since over a millennium.

Summary: thrilled by the diversity of one country

Kenya is so much more than just Nairobi and the Masai Mara. From the Indian Ocean, over the central plateau and the impressive Rift Valley, to the two big lakes in the West – Kenya has not only a rich and diverse nature, but also culture. I am happy and honoured, that I could undertake so many trips and share the experiences with so many great people. Traveling alone does by no means mean, being alone.

Special thanks to everybody who joined me on one or the other trip – you are all wonderful!

My waypoints on this journey

Kakamega - the city that feels like a small town and has an unique rural charm
the city that feels like a small town and has an unique rural charm
Shianda - meeting the first low income people on my journey in a small rural village
meeting the first low income people on my journey in a small rural village
Malinya - visiting a small rural market far away from the next city or infrastructure
visiting a small rural market far away from the next city or infrastructure
Kisumu - good food and wild nightlife, that's what you can find near the lake Victoria
good food and wild nightlife, that's what you can find near the lake Victoria
Kiboko Bay - overlooking the poolside with kids playing and slurping a fresh fruit juice
overlooking the poolside with kids playing and slurping a fresh fruit juice
Dunga Beach - enjoying the silence of a hidden paradise at the lake together with local tourists
enjoying the silence of a hidden paradise at the lake together with local tourists
Lake Victoria - riding in a small boat across Africa's largest lake and source of the Nile!
riding in a small boat across Africa's largest lake and source of the Nile!
Marsabit-Lake Turkana Cultural Festival - weekend trip to a remote village to witness a local festival for tribal peace
weekend trip to a remote village to witness a local festival for tribal peace
El Molo - visiting a small village of a local tribe with nothing but straw huts and fish
visiting a small village of a local tribe with nothing but straw huts and fish
Loiyangalani - exploring the village in the middle of nowhere between a desert and the lake
exploring the village in the middle of nowhere between a desert and the lake
Marsabit Rock Art - tracing back the path of our ancestors in the northern desert of Kenya
tracing back the path of our ancestors in the northern desert of Kenya
Lake Turkana - swimming in the largest desert lake and observing the crocodiles in nature
swimming in the largest desert lake and observing the crocodiles in nature
Catholic Mission - staying with African missionaries and learning about the local culture
staying with African missionaries and learning about the local culture
Hells Gate - riding a bicycle through a prehistoric lake and watching the grazing zebras
riding a bicycle through a prehistoric lake and watching the grazing zebras
Ol Njorowa Gorge - hiking and climbing through the narrow riverbed of the Hell's Gate gorge
hiking and climbing through the narrow riverbed of the Hell's Gate gorge
Olkaria Health Spa - enjoying a relaxing bath in a hot spring after a long day of hiking and cycling
enjoying a relaxing bath in a hot spring after a long day of hiking and cycling
Great Rift Valley - most beautiful outlook over the strongest tectonic forces of nature
most beautiful outlook over the strongest tectonic forces of nature
Masai Mara - unforgettable days in the wild, being incredible close to all the wild animals
unforgettable days in the wild, being incredible close to all the wild animals
Mara River - observing lazy hippos during the quiet time before the great migration
observing lazy hippos during the quiet time before the great migration
Naboisho Conservancy - more than just a glimpse preview of what to expect in the Masai Mara
more than just a glimpse preview of what to expect in the Masai Mara
Mara Leisure Camp - from a crackling bonfire and sparkling stars to the wild's drinking place
from a crackling bonfire and sparkling stars to the wild's drinking place
Lake Nakuru - finding a large family of rhinos instead of an endless group of flamingos
finding a large family of rhinos instead of an endless group of flamingos
Lamu Island - exploring the Swahili island with lots of donkeys, but no cars during ramadan
exploring the Swahili island with lots of donkeys, but no cars during ramadan
Shela Town - enjoying some quiet time at a beautiful beach, deserted thanks to Somalia
enjoying some quiet time at a beautiful beach, deserted thanks to Somalia
Indian Ocean - sailing on the third largest ocean with fisherman who can't find North
sailing on the third largest ocean with fisherman who can't find North
Pate Island - exploring the mostly untouched island without any tourists or traces of modernity
exploring the mostly untouched island without any tourists or traces of modernity
Bungoma - visiting a rural tow to speak to solar sales agents and explore the city on a bike
visiting a rural tow to speak to solar sales agents and explore the city on a bike
Kakamega National Park - cycling through the last tropical rain forest of Kenya and enjoying the canopy view
cycling through the last tropical rain forest of Kenya and enjoying the canopy view
Crying Stone of Ilesi - when a large boulder balances on a tremendous rock and writes history over tribal wars
when a large boulder balances on a tremendous rock and writes history over tribal wars
Rift Valley Railway - slowly, but steadily rolling from Nairobi to Mombasa in a bumpy and old train
slowly, but steadily rolling from Nairobi to Mombasa in a bumpy and old train
Old Mombasa - walking through the aspiring world heritage town, nearly run over by a car
walking through the aspiring world heritage town, nearly run over by a car
Fort Jesus - playing archeologist at a unique Portuguese fortification from the 16th century
playing archeologist at a unique Portuguese fortification from the 16th century
Shiva Temple - my first visit of a Hindu Template ever, learning about the oldest religion
my first visit of a Hindu Template ever, learning about the oldest religion
Diani Beach - staying at the far end of Diani at a very quiet and extraordinary beautiful beach
staying at the far end of Diani at a very quiet and extraordinary beautiful beach
Ali Barbour Cave - having delicious sea food and chocolate mousse in a natural coral cave
having delicious sea food and chocolate mousse in a natural coral cave